Author Irvine Welsh, domiciled in, let’s be honest, considerable
comfort in Chicago since 2009, and waxes lyrical about Leiths’s working class
credentials. The music venue ‘Leith Depot’s threat of closure rankles with him
and no doubt the recent closure of the Constitution Bar will vex him
further.
But before we shed crocodile tears, let us remember that
Leith and particularly Leith Walk is reflecting a modern trend. Bars and restaurants must compete in a cut throat world of
take-away deliveries, heavily subsidised supermarket meal deals, Netflix, TV
box sets and, crucially, an apparently endless government squeeze on the
disposable income of the population.
So, how do you survive with the odds stacked against you? The owners of Origano Pizzeria have possibly found a winning formula.
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| Origano Pizzeria, located on 236, Leith Walk. |
Flickering candles seen through large windows draw the eye,
like moths to the flame, of potential customers.
The restaurant attracts an eclectic mix of locals, students
and a fair share of sophisticates that all add to a genuinely cosmopolitan
ambience. Or put more simply, and not wishing to sound too cheesy, perhaps
everyone just loves pizza?
From the outset, friendly, attentive staff greet customers
with a smile and if a table is not quite ready customers can begin their
evening with a drink in their bar area.
 |
| Diners with bar photographed behind. |
Groups of up to ten people can reserve their horseshoe booth
– a cute cushioned snug at the back of the restaurant overlooking the other
tables.
The décor is simple but effective. Exposed stone walls hosting
a few abstract pictures and dimmed lighting give a relaxed rustic vibe.
Tables are nicely spaced and a bustling open plan kitchen
containing a huge wood burning oven diverts attention during lulls in the
conversation. Further embellishment is unnecessary with such a panoramic view
of Edinburgh life watched through the aforementioned windows.
 |
| Origano, on a busy Monday evening. |
Pizzas as you might expect dominate the menu. The appearance
of the menu, if truth be told, is a bit shabby. A single sheet of unlaminated,
dark-coloured paper is hard enough to read but with inevitable spillage and
grease marks taking their toll it creates a poor first impression. One would expect
this popular eatery could fashion, and afford, a more robust presentation of
their wares.
 |
| The ‘Caprino’ 11” Pizza for £10.95 - Tomato, mozzarella,
goat’s cheese, mixed peppers, garlic, parsley, with jalapenos instead of
chicken. |
Origano is licensed and is well served with Italian beer, a
small but acceptable wine list and an enticing range of quality fruit juice
choice.
The appetisers on offer are limited to small salads or bread
options but the stars of the show are of course the pizzas. Bases are hand-made,
and the delightfully light base is crusted perfectly on their stone oven.
Toppings are fresh and generous.
There are other mains including antipasto sharing platters,
lasagne and salads but really this is a pizzeria that has no need to worry
about the peripherals. Although hand–made desserts perhaps deserve special
mention.
 |
| ‘Orange and Ricotta Cake’ for £4.95 – Sponge cake, orange, mascarpone and chocolate sauce. |
Pizzas come in 11”, 14” or 16” sizes and can be served with
different toppings on each half. This versatility means that everyone has the
ability to design their own pizza.
 |
| A pizza shared. |
Sharing a larger version can, with the help of a little
mathematics, yield considerable savings. [Hot tip: - a calculator and πr2 can
ensure that more than one visit a week is viable!]
Sorry Mr Welsh, drugs, deprivation and darkness in Leith
fuelled your lavish lifestyle but restaurateurs and landlords are facing new
challenges and Origano is tackling this with a rare optimism.
The SCAMPI Test 26/30
Service: 5
Cooking: 4
Atmosphere: 5
Music: 3
Price: 5
Inspiration: 4
Origano, on 236, Leith Walk, in Edinburgh is open Monday to
Thursdays from 5pm to 10pm and Friday to Sundays from 12pm to 10pm. For more
information visit their website at http://www.origano-leith.co.uk/.
Please comment here or on our Facebook Page with any suggestions about where we should review next. Thank you!
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